Lawn Tractor Mower

The Reelmaster® 4000-D fairway mower offers exceptional productivity and durability. The outside cutting units can be individually lifted, allowing you to mow even in tight spaces with three, four or all five cutting units engaged. The open operator’s station is designed for superior visibility and ease of operation. The Reelmaster® 4000-D can make short work of the big jobs, saving you time and money, while delivering the quality of cut you and your players demand.

Product Details

* Kubota® 4-Cylinder Engine
* 11-1/2 feet Mowing Width
* Variable Reel Speed
* Rear Engine Design
* Optional 4WD

Engine Kubota® 4-cylinder
Fuel Capacity 17 gallon diesel fuel
Ground Speed 2WD Forward 0 - 12 mph
Ground Speed 4WD Forward 0 - 8.5 mph
Steering Full power steering
Approximate Weight 4,360 lbs. (1,979.4 kg)
Warranty 2 year limited warranty

The term “riding mower” has been used and abused to describe everything from any ride-on mower to a residential tractor. To differentiate, a riding mower is a rear-engine lawn mower on which the operator rides. By comparison, a ride-on mower with the engine in front is a lawn tractor or, if it can do more than cut a lawn, a garden tractor. (Lawn and garden tractors are reviewed separately.) Among rear-engine riding mowers there are two types: conventional riders and zero-turn riders. Conventional riders are nimble but can take 4 to 28 inches (depending on the model) to turn 180 degrees–wasted movement at the end of each directional cut. A zero-turning-radius rider (ZTR) does just that: it turns around in its own track, wasting no movement.

The goal of natural turf maintenance is to develop and maintain healthy lawn ecosystems. Different organisms occupy varying ecological niches. By keeping most of the niches “filled” with desired organisms, the delicate balance of nature favors a healthy lawn. Disruption of this balance can lead to lawn problems. One type of disruption is the creation of “empty” niches.

For example, bare soil is an “empty niche” that invites weeds to enter the lawn. Another example is that of beneficial fungi in the soil. Over 400 species of fungi are known to live in the soil and thatch of lawn. Of these, less then 25% are potentially harmful (Daar; 1992).

That means that over 75% of these fungi are occupying a niche that could otherwise by filled by bad fungi. That’s why even one application of lawn pesticides can be harmful to the lawn because it indiscriminately kills fungi, throwing off the natural fungal balance leaving the lawn wide open for attack.

For example, an herbicide is used to kill weeds, lowering the fungi population and creating empty niches. Something as simple as an unusually wet period combined with pest fungi that were previously kept under control by beneficial fungi now have their opportunity to attack the lawn. This can cause significant visual lawn damage. So to control the fungus, a fungicide is applied to the lawn. The additional pesticides make the lawn even more susceptible to problems creating a cycle where the lawn becomes more and more dependent or “addicted” to chemicals for control and prevention of pests and disease. This is what is often called the
chemical treadmill.
Fortunately, due to nature’s incredible ability for regeneration, even the most problem stricken, chemically dependent lawn can recover. The most important thing that you can do for your lawn is to increase the organic matter content of the soil. Organic matter improves drainage, water holding capacity, nutrient holding capacity, encourages earthworms, counters soil compaction and provides food for microorganisms that feed the grass. This is the foundation of a healthy lawn ecosystem. Organic matter can be added as lawn clippings, compost, decomposed manures, and some fertilizers that are high in organic matter. Here are 10 Tips for a healthy lawn:

1. Mow high. Set lawn mower to 2-3” high. Helps prevent weeds, drought, and grubs.
2. Mow with sharp mower blades. Sharpen the blades at least once per year. Shredded grass blades are more susceptible to disease.
3. Mow when dry. Ideally, mow when the soil is dry on the surface. Mowing wet soil can spread disease and using heavy equipment on wet soil compacts the soil causing poor drainage and other problems.
4. Leave clippings on lawn. They will break down to provide natural fertilizer and organic matter to the lawn.
5. Water deeply and occasionally. Instead of shallow and often. During droughts, for most lawns (depends on soil type and irrigation type) water 1x–2x per week for 45-60 minutes. This prevents damage to lawn from lack of water, discourages disease by allowing soil surface to dry, and encourages deep root growth.
6. Fertilize. Apply compost or an organic-based fertilizer 1-2 times per year. This provides essential nutrients and organic matter.
7. Monitor lawn. Keep an eye out for problems so they can be dealt with before getting out of control. Look for unusually colored patches, mole runs, thin grass, bare soil, and dug up areas. Along with these, a lawn monitoring program includes checking the soil for grub populations and soil compaction.
8. Weed control. Hand remove weeds. Try the “water weeder” sold by Lee Valley Tools for dandelions and other tap rooted weeds.
9. Grub control. White grub infestations can be treated with beneficial nematodes. It is best to apply them in the fall. Nematodes have a short shelf life and die in dry soil so follow instructions precisely and only order if planning to apply them soon.
10. Got a headache? If all of this sounds like a headache, consider reducing your lawn and replacing it with low maintenance native prairie or woodland plants, sedges, moss, or edible plants. The possibilities are endless!

TopLawnmower in support for natural mower.

A lawn’s size is the major criterion in choosing a mower. Don’t pay for more mower than you need, but make sure you get one that can handle the job. Lawns are best kept at a height of 3 to 4 inches to deter weeds, hold in moisture and encourage deep, healthy root systems. Clippings are best mulched — chopped into fine pieces that fall back on the grass and quickly decompose, nourishing the lawn. Regular sharpening makes mowing easier and is better for the grass. Here are five types of lawn mowers to consider.

1. Reel mower: The old-fashioned people-powered lawn mower is making a big comeback because of its simplicity, quietness, modest cost and zero pollution. “You’ll definitely get more exercise,” says Todd Dressel of Dressel’s Hardware in Oak Park. “But we can all use that.” For a modest lawn — 1,000 square feet or so — it should be sufficient. The reel mower works like scissors, with blades that slice grass cleanly. It can’t handle overgrown grass, so you need to keep up with the mowing. But it never needs oil, gas, spark plugs or winterizing. Expect to spend $75 to $200; more expensive models may be easier to push.

Riding (ride-on) mowers
A z-turn mower on the campus.

A popular alternative for larger lawns is the riding (or ride-on) mower. The operator is provided with a seat and controls on the mower and literally ‘rides’ on the machine. Most use the horizontal rotating blade system, though usually with multiple blades.A common form of ride-on mower is the lawn tractor. These are usually designed to resemble a small agricultural tractor, with the cutting deck mounted amidships between the front and rear axles.

The drives for these mowers are in several categories. The most common transmission for tractors is a manual transmission. The second most common transmssion type is a form of continuously variable transmission called the hydrostatic transmission. These transmissions take several forms, from pumps driving separate motors, which may incorporate a gear reduction, to fully integrated units containing a pump, motor and gear reduction. Hydrostatic transmissions are more expensive than mechanical transmissions but they are easier to use and can transmit greater torque to the wheels as compared to a typical mechanical transmission. The least common drive type, and the most expensive, is electric.

There have been a number of attempts to replace hydrostatic transmissions with a lower cost alternative, but these attempts, which include variable belt types (e.g., MTD’s Auto Drive) and toroidal, have various performance or perception problems that has caused their market life to be short or their market penetration to be limited.

Spring is my favorite time of year. With the warmer days we have been experiencing, our landscape plants and lawns have begun to awaken from their winter slumber. Fresh, new leaves on the trees and beautiful flowers adorn the landscapes around town.
The only plant that makes me cringe when it wakes from winter sleep is the lawn, because that means that I also will have to wake up my lawn mower from its winter slumber. However, this springtime awakening of the lawn and lawn mower indicates it is time to fertilize the lawn and provide it with the nutrients it needs to continue to grow and be healthy all season.
Regular fertilization is essential for growing a healthy, beautiful lawn. It is especially important in Florida because of the infertile, sandy soils. A majority of Florida soils cannot hold nutrients as well as the rich, organic soils found in other areas of the country. Not only is fertilization used to maintain good-quality lawns; it can also be used to improve poor-quality lawns. Of course, efficient mowing, watering and pest control must be combined with proper fertilization to produce a healthy lawn.
A lawn-fertilization schedule is easy to plan. Only three questions need to be answered: Which essential nutrients need to be supplied? What type of fertilizer should be used? How much fertilizer should be applied and how often? Fortunately for us, the University of Florida’s IFAS researchers have already determined an effective, efficient fertilization schedule.

In early spring, a complete fertilizer should be applied to the lawn. A complete fertilizer is one that has a formula made up of the three essential nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). The three numbers on the fertilizer bag represent the percentages of these nutrients in the bag.
The fertilizer should be applied in multiple (two to five) applications yearly, depending on what variety of turf grass you have and how much maintenance you desire.
With each fertilizer application, a half to a pound of nitrogen should be applied. It is highly recommended that at least 30 percent of the nitrogen come from a slow-release source. To find out how much of the common fertilizer types this relates to, go to http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/EP221.
For example, a fertilizer with the analysis 15-2-15 and 30 percent slow-release nitrogen will often provide color and growth for 60 days or more. If using this type of product, you would only fertilize every 60 to 75 days at a rate of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. These slow-release fertilizer sources are safer environmentally since they are less likely to leach nitrogen into ground or surface water.
A 50-pound bag of 15-2-15 contains 15 percent nitrogen, or 7.5 pounds total nitrogen. This bag will fertilize more than 2,200 square feet at the rate of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.
Higher fertilization rates are unnecessary and will produce a faster buildup of thatch than lower rates. Always irrigate fertilizer with a quarter-inch of water — this will move the fertilizer from the leaf blade to the root, where it will be taken up.
Do not fertilize if rain is forecast in the next 24 hours. A slow release of nitrogen should be applied again at the same rate in May and July, with another complete fertilizer application in October.
If the lawn starts to turn yellow between fertilizer applications, it is most likely a sign that it needs iron. For iron deficiency, spray ferrous sulfate (2 ounces in 3 to 5 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet) or a chelated iron source (refer to the label for rates). Iron applications every six weeks will help maintain green color and, unlike nitrogen, will not promote excessive growth, decreasing the frequency the lawn needs to be mowed.
By following these fertilization schedules, you can produce a lush, green, healthy lawn.
Research has shown that these schedules are effective. Some individuals insist on fertilizing more than recommended. Over fertilization can be detrimental to lawns. Over fertilization causes lawns to push out new growth almost continuously.
Continuous growth creates green lawns, but it also creates weak growth highly susceptible to insects and diseases. For example, chinch bugs love new growth in St. Augustine lawns.
Over fertilized lawns also need to be mowed and watered more frequently, and excess fertilizer not consumed by the lawns is washed into our waterways, causing pollution.
For more information, contact the Osceola County Master Gardeners. They are available to take your calls Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Call with your plant questions.

Purchasing a riding lawnmower (lawn tractor) is almost as confusing as purchasing a new car.  In the Winter of 2005/2006, I began researching for a riding lawnmower.  I finally made my purchase in the Spring of 2006.  What really should have been a simple process, turned into a researcher’s ordeal.  I finally purchased a Huskee SLT 4200 Hydrostatic Lawn Tractor ($1199.96 + tax) from my local Tractor Supply Company.

Just like buying a car, it is highly recommended that you determine what features you need in your lawn tractor.  Personally, I wanted the hydrostatic/automatic transmission for a tractor.  I got tired of shifting gears depending on the growth of the lawn or the terrain.  Other features on tractors are cup holders, cruise control, head lights, engine size, mower deck size, engine placement (front rear), steering (2 wheel or 4 wheel), adjustable seat, attachment accessories, and the list keeps going.

Now here is the kicker….MTD’s lawn tractor production facility covers a lot of “name brand” equipment.  I’m not bashing MTD, but the point is that they manufacture Huskee, Troy-Bilt, Yard Man, Yard Machines, Bolens, White Outdoor, Arnold, and McCulloch.  There are minor cosmetic differences between the tractors - but replacment parts are bought at MTD.  Lawn tractors are sold under the Husqvarna, Craftsman, Poulan Pro, Poulan, and Weed Eater brands names - but are mainly under one company.  Let’s not also forget about the John Deere/Sabre line of riding mowers.

Update (11/23/07):  I was doing some research for a customer when I discovered, by accident, information concerning Murray lawnmowers.  I was looking up the recall information concerning a riding lawn tractor and I found the particular recall I needed.  The CPSC recall notice states that the company (Murray) is no longer in business and the customer should no longer use the lawn tractor.  I continued with my research and found that Briggs and Stratton had purchased the Murray name and is beginning to get into its own product division of lawn care.  Personally, it makes sense.  B&S makes engines - why not the rest of the mower?  I would just hope that engineering and quality control would improve upon some of the design flaws that are currently out there.

The first major point is to hit the web to find out the major manufacturer of the intended riding lawn tractor.  Then make comparisions between the units (Huskee and Troy-Bilt for example).  Not every feature will be available between the “brand lines”, but most of the features will be.  There might also be a difference between horsepower.  One you figure out the manufacturer, begin on reseach on price.

Sometimes, on line is a quick way to find the price, but sometimes the local stores may have specials that are not advertised on line.  When I purchased my lawn tractor, they were giving away a free 85 pound capacity spreader.  It was a $60.00 value.  I also picked up a $100 gift card from the store’s on-line magazine.  The lawn tractor was purchased with all my research done.

Accordingly, the auctioneers site process is similiar.  Now that you know a Troy-bilt is almost the same as a Huskee or as a Yard Machine - why are you bidding top dollar?  Granted, I had a grandmother that believed that Mercury cars were better than Fords - but look under the hood of your riding mower.  Yes, Troy-bilt was a name that meant “one of a kind” - but those days are done.  Also remember, most lawn tractors have about a 10 year life span.  If you are bidding on a used one you must consider the age, condition and maintenance schedule.  That’s why you shouldn’t be bidding on a name-only lawn tractor.

You may not realize it, but your lawn mower needs routine maintenance in the same way that your car does. Keeping your lawn mower in top shape will not only make it run better, it will also make it last longer!

You should give your lawn mower a good tune-up every spring. If you don’t use your lawn mower a lot, you may be able to skip a season. But, whether you use it a lot or not, it’s been sitting all winter and really needs a little care!

There are only three main steps to getting your lawn mower ready for a hassle free season! You should change the oil, the spark plug and the air filter. With very little tools and time, you can keep your lawn mower running at it’s best!

To be extra safe, remove the spark plug wire anytime you work on your lawn mower. It’s highly unlikely that it’s just going to start and run on it’s own, but better safe than sorry!

Choosing the right type of oil and filters is very important. It’s also important that your spark plug is gapped at the right specification for your model. Spark plugs are usually pre-gapped at the factory, but it may not be set for your exact lawn mower.

A gapping tool is very inexpensive, usually under a couple of dollars. If you don’t already have one, pick one up when you buy the plug, the same tool can be used on your car’s spark plugs!

If you’re not sure about the information for your lawn mower, you can check your owners manual, ask a salesperson or even search your model and make online.

Before removing the spark plug make sure that you clean the area around it. An old rag will work, but it’s better to use a small brush. You don’t want any old grass or dirt to fall inside the motor!

Then use a socket wrench to remove the old plug. You’ll have to have a deep welled socket that will fit over the plug. Check the new plug to make sure it’s gapped correctly and then just screw it into place! If you’re done working on your mower, remember to replace the plug wire!

Your lawn mower will either require a paper air filter or one made of foam. To replace a paper air filter, just remove the cover and replace the old filter with the pleats facing outward.

A foam air filter is inside a filter unit, but it’s still just a matter of unscrewing the cover. However, the unit is removable and you’ll need to clean it thoroughly. Usually a little kerosene will remove all of the old sludge from the unit.

The new piece of foam will also need to be soaked in clean oil. Once it has completely soaked, use an old rag to squeeze out the oil. Insert it into the unit and replace the cover.

The first thing you’ll want to do when changing the oil is to use an old rag to clean any dirt or debris off of your oil tank. You may even need to use an old toothbrush, you want to make sure that nothing falls into the oil tank.

There will be a small plug on the bottom of your oil tank. Before unscrewing the plug, you’ll need to have a container to catch all of the old oil. Removing the dip stick will provide air for the oil to completely drain.

Once you’ve got the container in place you’re ready to remove the drain plug. You can use a pair of vise grips to loosen plug and then remove it with your fingers.

If the oil is really dirty, or it’s became thick and clumpy, clean the drain plug and the dip stick. Replace the drain plug and just tighten it to a good snug fit.

Although most lawn mowers don’t use a oil filter, there are some that do. If your model requires an oil filter you will want to change that as well.

It will be one of two types of filters, the screw on type like a car uses or a canister filter. Just wait until you’ve drained all of the old oil before removing the filter.

The screw on type is simply screwed off and replaced the same way. The canister type will be inside a housing, there will be a bolt in the center of the housing that holds it in place.

Just remove the bolt and lower the housing a little to remove the old cartridge. Place the new cartridge inside the housing and replace the bolt and tighten it back up.

Now, your ready to fill it back up with clean oil! Before adding the new oil just remove any blocks that you used to raise the lawn mower and make sure it’s sitting nice and level!

Anytime that you change the oil, you should start your lawn mower and let it run for a little while. Watch around the oil tank and oil filter to make sure there aren’t any leaks. If you do notice a leak, just tighten them a little more!